Time for a report on the windlass gearbox issue:

I first tried increasing amounts of impact force with hammer blows. Next, I tried using a screw jack from the overhead deck to the gearbox flange. I then used an appropriate size pipe from above with a 3 lb sledge. Next was removing the lower housing of the gearbox and the ring gear/shaft assembly. Then I applied heat from a heat gun to the remaining top flange assembly. All with no success at all.

Finally, I took a dremel and several abrasive cutoff wheels and ground several vertical slits in the narrow portion of the flange assembly. I hammered a brute of a screwdriver in the slits and managed only to break off a big chunk of aluminum. I cut another slit and broke off another piece. So it went until I finally had half the circumference mostly exposed. Only then did the flange come off the steel tube attached to the upper half of the windlass. It appears all that was holding it on was severe corrosion from the dissimilar aluminum and carbon steel.

My original hope to salvage the entire windlass and perhaps replace some bearings and seals became folly as time wore on. At some point, I figured the gearbox was a goner and resigned myself to its costly replacement. After I get the upper portion of the windlass off the boat (after New Years), I will be in a better position to determine what can be saved and what makes economic sense.

Besides sharing my tale of woe, I want to warn all owners with a windlass of a similar design that this is a BAD situation if/when it happens. I think the ONLY way to know if you have this corrosion problem is to remove the gearbox. Maxwell's service recommendation is to remove the gearbox every 3 years and take it for service to an authorized dealer. Right now, I'm thinking the critical part of that recommendation is just getting the gearbox off and reapplying whatever substance helps reduce that corrosion.

I estimate that the job of getting to the gearbox from inside the v-berth, to removing the motor and the gearbox is less than 30 minutes - if the gearbox just slides off as it should. The problem is, like so many things, it is kind of out of sight and out of mind - until it fails. I further estimate that between my two buddies and me, looking, studying, planning, going for tools and gear, we consumed at least 8 man-hours of time. But, that's boats for 'ya.

Well, I started doing some preliminary research into replacement components and came across an entire windlass replacement (minus chain, rope and electrical cabling, of course).

It was on Defender's site for $700 and my admiral made perfect sense when she said that it is only a matter of time before some other major part of the assembly needs replacement, so why not go new. This way, I still have a spare motor and a few other major parts.

I'm not happy having to part unexpectedly with a big chunk of money, but that's boat ownership, isn't it?

If anyone else is reading this, have you had major repair or replacement needed on your Freedom windlass? If so, how old was it?

Happy New Year, all!

Hi, Bud. It includes the chain wheel, but not the capstan drum. My current model has the capstan and in 5 years of cruising I have never used it. My primary rode is 80ft of chain and a lot of nylon 3-strand, all of which the windlass handles due to the rope/chain splice. When I use the secondary rode, which is rare, I just haul it by hand.

I suppose the capstan would be handy for getting someone up the mast, but again I have not used it as such yet. Studying the engineering drawings, it appears that the capstan is just bolted onto the standard shaft, so my existing capstan should fit if I desire to use it.

Some of my buddies who have owned boats for many decades say 10 years is not a bad lifespan for a windlass that has been used a lot. I think most last longer than that, but that comment makes me feel better having to shell out the money for a replacement.

I will finalize this report for the record.

The replacement windlass (800 Freedom) kit came and I installed it with no problems. It is simply a case of removing 3 nuts and pulling the above-decks assembly off. The new assembly gets bolted down and then the gearbox/motor assembly gets a thorough greasing and is attached from below.

Here is the kicker: The new users manual states that the gearbox should be removed EVERY 3 MONTHS, cleaned and regreased, and then reattached. This is quite different from the 3 YEARS in my original manual. It sure seems to me that somewhere along the line Maxwell got a lot of complaints about the severe corrosion that can result and this ridiculously frequent service interval is their answer.

So much of the equipment, the manual, and other things point to a quality company and product. Even my multiple emails to Maxwell were immediately answered, albeit with little guidance. But designing and selling gear that has such a propensity for severe corrosion is a problem in my book.

I now have it scheduled for ANNUAL removal, cleaning, and regreasing, which should be fine.