Malcolm
09-21-2009, 03:46 PM
In August I noted that my replacement Sherwood raw water pump on my M35B was bleeding water through the holes which I assume were provided to relieve leakage pressure before the water gets to the bearings and the engine.
Question 1
This pump is a complete replacement pump. When I compared it to the original pump which I had as a spare I noted that these vent holes are taped over and the tape is painted gray ie. Universal installed and painted the engine with the tape in place. The tape looks to be reasonably heavy - as if it was intended to stay there. My concern is that it defeats the purpose - and that is what is on the engine now. Why is the painted tape there and should I remove it?
Question 2
I disassembled to pump I removed this summer and noted that the problem of leakage was caused by a circlip which is worn out. I expect the circlip is supposed to hold the seal elements tight so the seal works. A sliver remained of the circlip. Why would there be rotation relative to the circlip?
Question 3
To make the pump I removed into a spare, should I replace the water seal, the bearings and engine oil seal? what is the best way to do this? The leak hadn't been for more than 22 hours (probably much less). Raw water is lake water. The oil level on the engine has not increased.
Background - I had replaced the complete original pump 2 summers ago as a precaution (since while raising anchor we ran the original for less than 10 minutes without water after starting a cold engine - the original still worked another 21 hours without a problem before I replaced it).
Question 1
This pump is a complete replacement pump. When I compared it to the original pump which I had as a spare I noted that these vent holes are taped over and the tape is painted gray ie. Universal installed and painted the engine with the tape in place. The tape looks to be reasonably heavy - as if it was intended to stay there. My concern is that it defeats the purpose - and that is what is on the engine now. Why is the painted tape there and should I remove it?
Question 2
I disassembled to pump I removed this summer and noted that the problem of leakage was caused by a circlip which is worn out. I expect the circlip is supposed to hold the seal elements tight so the seal works. A sliver remained of the circlip. Why would there be rotation relative to the circlip?
Question 3
To make the pump I removed into a spare, should I replace the water seal, the bearings and engine oil seal? what is the best way to do this? The leak hadn't been for more than 22 hours (probably much less). Raw water is lake water. The oil level on the engine has not increased.
Background - I had replaced the complete original pump 2 summers ago as a precaution (since while raising anchor we ran the original for less than 10 minutes without water after starting a cold engine - the original still worked another 21 hours without a problem before I replaced it).